Tulipa is a bulky cotton crochet sweater pattern!
Crocheted in butter soft cotton, this bottom-up raglan sweater with tulip stitch details has an airy stitch pattern and an oversized fit. It is slightly cropped and has a relaxed round neck, but the fit is easily customized! Perfect between seasons sweater to add to your wardrobe.
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Finished Sizes: S (M, L, XL, 2X), finished bust 40 (45, 50 ½, 53, 58 ½ )”
Materials:
950 yds bulky weight cotton yarn (CYCA 5, Bulky) in three colors. Model shown in Knit Picks Billow (affiliate link) (100% Pima cotton; 120 yds; 100g) 6 (6, 7, 7, 7) skeins Tempest (MC), 1 (all sizes) skein each Celadon (CC1) and Tea Rose (CC2)
K/10 ½ /6.50mm crochet hook or size needed to obtain gauge
Tapestry needle
Gauge: 3 V-sts x 5 rows = 4” in V-st
Special Stitches:
V-st – (dc, ch 1, dc) in same sp or st
Puff st – (yo, insert hook in sp, yo, draw up a loop) 5 times, yo, draw through all 11 loops on hook
Notes:
Ch-3 counts as 1 dc
Ch-4 counts as 1 dc + ch-1
Abbreviations:
Beg – beginning
Ch – chain
Dc – double crochet
Fdc – foundation double crochet
Rnd – round
Sk – skip
Sl st – slip stitch
St(s) – stitch(es)
Body:
With MC, ch 90 (102, 114, 120, 132). Join to work in the round by placing a sl st in the first ch, being careful not to twist.
OR work 90 (102, 114, 120, 132) fdc and skip to Rnd 2.
Rnd 1: Ch 3, dc in each ch around. Join rnd with sl st in top of beg-ch-3. 90 (102, 114, 120, 132) dc
Rnd 2: Ch 4, dc in same st as rnd join *sk 2 dc, V-st in next dc. Rep from * around, sk 2 dc, join rnd with sl st in 3rd ch of beg-ch-4. 30 (34, 38, 40, 44) V-sts
Rnd 3: Sl st in first ch-1 sp, ch 4, dc in same ch-1 sp, *V-st in ch-1 sp of next V-st. Rep from * around, join rnd with sl st in 3rd ch of beg-ch-4.
Rep Rnd 3 until work measures 12 (12, 13, 13, 14)” or desired length to underarm. Set aside for now.
Sleeves: Make 2:
With MC ch 42 (42, 48, 48, 54). Join to work in the round by placing a sl st in the first ch, being careful not to twist.
OR work 90 42 (42, 48, 48, 54) fdc and skip to Rnd 2.
Rnd 1: Ch 3, dc in each ch around. Join rnd with sl st in top of beg-ch-3. 42 (42, 48, 48, 54) dc
Rnd 2: Change to CC1, end off MC, ch 4, dc in same st as rnd join *sk 2 dc, V-st in next dc. Rep from * around, sk 2 dc, join rnd with sl st in 3rd ch of beg-ch-4. 14 (14, 16, 16, 18) V-sts
Rnd 3: Change to CC2, end off CC1, sl st in first ch-1 sp, ch 2, puff st in same ch-1 sp, ch 3, *puff st in next ch-1 sp, ch 3. Rep from * around. Join rnd with sl st in first puff st. 14 (14, 16, 16, 18) puff sts
Rnd 4: Change to MC, end off CC2, ch 1, sc around working 1 sc in each puff st and 2 sc in each ch-sp. 42 (42, 48, 48, 54) sc
Rnd 5: Ch 4, dc in same st as rnd join *sk 2 dc, V-st in next dc. Rep from * around, sk 2 dc, join rnd with sl st in 3rd ch of beg-ch-4. 30 (34, 38, 40, 44) V-sts
Rnd 6: Sl st in first ch-1 sp, ch 4, dc in same ch-1 sp, *V-st in ch-1 sp of next V-st. Rep from * around, join rnd with sl st in 3rd ch of beg-ch-4.
Rep Rnd 6 until work measures 20 (20, 21, 21, 22)” or desired length to underarm. Set aside for now, do not end off yarn.
Raglan Shaping:
Now the sleeves are joined to the body and the sweater is worked as one to the neckline.
Rnd 1: Put your hook in the working yarn from the Body. Beginning where the round join was for first sleeve, V-st in each V-st around the sleeve and do NOT join, V-st in next 15 (17, 19, 20, 22) V-sts of Body, V-st in each V-st of second sleeve beginning at the round join, V-st in remaining 15 (17, 19, 20, 22) V-sts of Body. Join rnd with sl st in first dc of first V-st on the first sleeve – this is now the beginning of the round, place marker there if desired. 58 (62, 70, 72, 80) V-sts
Rnd 2: Sl st in first ch-1 sp, ch 3, [V-st in each of next 12 (12, 14, 14, 16) V-sts, dc in ch-1 sp of next V-st, V-st in each of next 15 (17, 19, 20, 22) V-sts], dc in ch-1 sp of next V-st, rep instructions in brackets, join rnd with sl st in top of beg-ch-3. 54 (58, 66, 68, 76) V-sts + 4 dc
Rnd 3: Sl st in next dc and in next ch-1 sp, ch 4, dc in same ch-1 sp, [V-st in each of next 11 (11, 13, 13, 15) V-sts, sk the solo dc, dc in ch-1 sp of next V-st, V-st in each of next 13 (15, 17, 18, 20) V-sts, dc in ch-1 sp of next V-st], sk next solo dc, rep instructions in brackets, join rnd with sl st in 3rd ch of beg-ch-4. 50 (54, 62, 64, 72) V-sts + 4 dc
Rep Rnds 2 & 3 for pattern, noting the numbers in parentheses will decrease by 2 on every repeat, 3 (3, 4, 4, 6) times. Do not end off. 24 (26, 26, 28, 28) V-sts + 4 dc
Note: If you are making this for yourself it’s a great time to try it on. This has a wide neckline but if you would like it to fit more closely, you can add more repeats of the decrease pattern.
Neckline Edging:
Rnd 1: Ch 1, sc around, placing 1 sc in each each dc and ch-1 sp, decreasing a total of 7 times, once at each raglan point, the other 3 on front and back. Join rnd with sl st in first sc. 69 (75, 75, 81, 81) sc
Rnd 2: Change to CC1, end off MC, ch 4, dc in same st as rnd join *sk 2 dc, V-st in next dc. Rep from * around, sk 2 dc, join rnd with sl st in 3rd ch of beg-ch-4. 23 (25, 25, 27, 27) V-sts
Rnd 3: Change to CC2, end off CC1, sl st in first ch-1 sp, ch 2, puff st in same ch-1 sp, ch 2, *(puff st in next ch-1 sp, ch 3) twice, puff st in next ch-1 sp, ch 2. Rep from * around, noting the S, XL and 2X will not end with a full rep. Join rnd with sl st in first puff st. 23 (25, 25, 27, 27) puff sts
Rnd 4: Change to MC, end off CC2, ch 1, sc around working 1 sc in each puff st and 2 sc in each ch-sp that had a ch-3 between sts, 1 sc in each ch-sp that had a ch-2 between sts. Join rnd with sl st in first sc. 62 (66, 66, 72, 72) sc
Rnd 5: Ch 1, sc in each sc around. Join rnd with sl st in first sc. End off.
Finishing:
.
With MC and tapestry needle sew up gap at each underarm.
Weave in all ends.
